How To Read Sewing Patterns: A Step-By-Step Guide For Beginners
Sewing your own clothes can be an incredibly rewarding hobby, allowing you to create customized pieces that fit your style and body perfectly. However, learning how to follow a commercial sewing pattern can seem daunting, especially for beginners.
If you’re short on time, here’s a quick answer to your question: To read a sewing pattern, first identify the key components like grainlines, cutting lines, seam allowances, and notation marks. Lay out the pattern pieces and pin them to fabric, following layout diagrams and cutting instructions.
Transfer all markings from paper pattern pieces to fabric. Follow sewing order and stitch pieces together at proper seam allowances. Press seams as you go and finish by hemming or adding closures.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk through every step of understanding and following both paper and digital sewing patterns, from what the different markings mean to how to cut and sew the pieces together.
Understanding the Key Components of a Sewing Pattern
When it comes to reading sewing patterns, it’s important to understand the key components that make up these instructions. By familiarizing yourself with these components, you’ll be able to navigate through patterns with ease and confidence. Here are some important elements to look out for:
Grainlines
Grainlines are one of the fundamental aspects of a sewing pattern. They indicate the direction in which the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric. It’s important to follow the grainlines to ensure that your finished garment hangs correctly and doesn’t stretch or distort over time.
Cutting Lines
The cutting lines on a sewing pattern indicate where you should cut your fabric. These lines may be solid or dashed, depending on the pattern. It’s essential to cut along these lines accurately to ensure that your garment comes together correctly.
Seam Allowances
Seam allowances are the extra fabric allowance given around the edges of the pattern pieces. These allowances are necessary for joining the pieces together. Most sewing patterns have a standard seam allowance of 5/8 inch, but it’s always a good idea to double-check the pattern instructions for any variations.
Notches and Matching Points
Notches and matching points are small markings on the pattern pieces that help you align and match the pieces together correctly. These markers ensure that your garment comes together seamlessly and that all the pieces fit together as intended.
Construction Symbols
Construction symbols are visual representations of specific sewing techniques and instructions. These symbols can indicate things like pleats, darts, buttonholes, and more. Understanding these symbols will help you follow the pattern instructions accurately.
Pattern Sizing and Terminology
Patterns come in various sizes, and it’s essential to choose the correct size for your measurements. Make sure to refer to the pattern’s size chart and take accurate measurements before selecting a size.
Additionally, familiarize yourself with common sewing terminology used in patterns, such as right side, wrong side, fold line, and so on.
By understanding these key components of a sewing pattern, you’ll be well-equipped to tackle any sewing project with confidence. Remember to take your time, read the instructions thoroughly, and don’t be afraid to ask for help or seek out additional resources when needed. Happy sewing!
Preparing Fabric and Pattern for Cutting
Pre-washing Fabric
Before you start working with your fabric, it is important to pre-wash it. This step ensures that any shrinkage that may occur happens before you cut and sew your garment. Simply toss the fabric in the washing machine with a mild detergent, following the care instructions on the fabric label.
Once washed, dry the fabric according to the recommended method, whether that be air-drying or using a dryer. This will prevent any unwanted surprises later on when you have completed your project.
Straightening Fabric Grain
The fabric grain refers to the direction of the threads in the fabric. It is important to straighten the fabric grain before cutting your pattern pieces to ensure that your garment hangs properly. To straighten the grain, fold the fabric selvage-to-selvage, aligning the selvage edges.
Then, align the crosswise grain by folding the fabric lengthwise, matching the selvage edges and the folded edge. This will ensure that the fabric grain is straight and parallel to the selvages, allowing your garment to drape correctly.
Understanding Pattern Layouts
When working with sewing patterns, it is crucial to understand the layout instructions provided. These instructions show you how to arrange your pattern pieces on the fabric to minimize waste and ensure proper alignment.
Pay attention to grainlines, which indicate the direction the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric, and pattern markings, which help you match seams and other important design elements. Following the pattern layout will help you achieve the best results and make the most of your fabric.
Pinning Pattern to Fabric
Once you have pre-washed your fabric, straightened the grain, and understood the pattern layout, it’s time to pin the pattern to your fabric. Start by laying your fabric out on a flat surface, ensuring it is smooth and free from any wrinkles.
Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the layout instructions, aligning them with the grainlines and matching any pattern markings. Use sharp pins to secure the pattern to the fabric, making sure to place them within the seam allowance to avoid any damage to the final garment.
Take your time with this step to ensure accuracy and precision in cutting your fabric.
For more information and tips on sewing patterns and garment construction, check out Sew Guide, a great resource for beginners and experienced sewists alike.
Cutting Out the Pattern Pieces
Marking Fabric with Pattern Symbols
When it comes to cutting out pattern pieces for sewing, it’s important to first mark your fabric with the pattern symbols. These symbols indicate important information such as grainline, notches, and placement marks.
By marking these symbols on your fabric, you’ll ensure that you’re cutting the pieces accurately and in the right direction.
One way to mark your fabric is by using tailor’s chalk or fabric markers. Simply trace the symbols onto the fabric following the pattern instructions. It’s a good idea to use a contrasting color to make the markings more visible.
Remember to mark both the front and back of the fabric, especially if you’ll be sewing multiple layers together.
If you’re unsure about the symbols or need more guidance, many sewing pattern companies provide detailed explanations and tutorials on their websites. Take advantage of these resources to ensure you’re marking your fabric correctly.
Cutting Out Pieces Accurately
Once you’ve marked your fabric with the pattern symbols, it’s time to cut out the pieces accurately. This step is crucial to ensure that your finished garment fits properly and looks professional.
Start by folding your fabric in half with the right sides facing each other. This allows you to cut out mirrored pieces for the left and right sides of your garment. Make sure the fabric is smooth and free from wrinkles before you start cutting.
Using sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter, carefully cut along the marked lines. Take your time to ensure clean and precise cuts. It’s better to cut slightly outside the line and then trim the excess later if needed.
When cutting curved or intricate shapes, it can be helpful to use small snips or notches along the seam allowances. This will allow the fabric to lay flat and prevent any puckering or bunching when sewing the pieces together.
Remember, practice makes perfect. Don’t be discouraged if your first few attempts aren’t perfect. With time and experience, you’ll become more confident in cutting out pattern pieces accurately.
Assembling the Pieces
When it comes to reading sewing patterns, one of the first steps is to assemble the pieces. This involves understanding the different elements that make up the pattern and how they fit together to create the desired garment. Here are some key steps to help you navigate this process.
Staystitching
Staystitching is an essential step in preparing your pattern pieces for sewing. It involves stitching a line of stitches just inside the seam allowance to stabilize the fabric and prevent it from stretching or distorting.
This is particularly important for areas such as necklines, armholes, and curved edges. By staystitching, you ensure that your fabric pieces will stay true to shape and size throughout the sewing process.
Sewing Order
Understanding the sewing order outlined in the pattern instructions is crucial for successful garment construction. The sewing order dictates the sequence in which the different pieces are sewn together.
It helps ensure that you don’t miss any steps or end up with a garment that is difficult to assemble. Take the time to carefully read and follow the sewing order provided in the pattern instructions.
Clipping Curves
When working with curved seams, such as armholes or princess seams, it’s important to clip the curves to allow the fabric to lay flat and prevent any puckering or bulging. Clipping curves involves making small cuts along the seam allowance at regular intervals, being careful not to cut through the stitching.
This allows the fabric to stretch and conform to the shape of the curve, resulting in a smooth and professional-looking finish.
Pressing Seams
Pressing seams is an integral part of sewing and can make a significant difference in the final outcome of your garment. By pressing your seams, you not only ensure that they lie flat and look neat but also help them to retain their shape and provide structure to the garment.
Use a pressing cloth and press the seams with a hot iron, following the instructions provided in the pattern.
Finishing Raw Edges
Finishing the raw edges of your garment is essential for a polished and professional look. There are various methods you can use to finish raw edges, such as serging, zigzag stitching, or using bias tape. The choice of finishing method will depend on the fabric type and the desired outcome.
Be sure to consult the pattern instructions for the recommended finishing technique.
By following these steps and paying attention to the details outlined in the pattern instructions, you’ll be well on your way to successfully reading and understanding sewing patterns. Remember, practice makes perfect!
Don’t be afraid to start with simpler patterns and gradually work your way up to more complex projects. Happy sewing!
Hemming and Adding Closures
One important step in sewing is hemming your garment. Hemming refers to folding and sewing the raw edge of the fabric to create a neat and finished look. It is essential to know how to hem your garment properly to give it a professional look.
To hem your garment, start by folding the raw edge of the fabric towards the wrong side of the fabric. Use a sewing machine or hand stitch to secure the hem in place. It’s important to choose the appropriate stitch length and thread color to match your fabric.
Adding closures, such as zippers, buttons, or snaps, is another crucial step in sewing. Closures not only provide functionality but also add a decorative element to your garment.
Zippers
Zippers are commonly used to close openings in garments, such as skirts, pants, or dresses. There are different types of zippers available, including invisible zippers, regular zippers, and separating zippers.
To add a zipper, start by marking the placement of the zipper on your fabric. Use pins or tailor’s chalk to make accurate markings. Then, sew the zipper onto the fabric, making sure it is aligned correctly. Finally, secure the ends of the zipper with additional stitching to ensure it stays in place.
Buttons and Snaps
Buttons and snaps are other popular closures used in sewing. They can be functional or purely decorative, depending on the design of your garment.
To add buttons, you will need to create buttonholes on one side of the garment and sew buttons on the opposite side. Use a buttonhole foot on your sewing machine or create buttonholes manually. Sew the buttons securely, ensuring they are aligned with the buttonholes.
Snaps, on the other hand, are fasteners that create a secure closure. They are commonly used in children’s clothing and accessories. To add snaps, mark the placement on your fabric and use snap pliers or a hammer to attach them securely.
Remember, practice makes perfect when it comes to hemming and adding closures. Take your time, follow the instructions carefully, and don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques and designs. Happy sewing!
Conclusion
Following a sewing pattern precisely may seem complicated at first glance, but taking it step-by-step makes the process very manageable. Once you understand the basic components of a pattern and the order of operations for construction, you’ll gain confidence to tackle more advanced garment-making projects.
With some practice reading patterns and sewing test samples, you’ll be customizing projects and creating professional-looking homemade fashions in no time. Happy sewing!
